Crazy prices

Started by guy48065, 01-18-2016 -- 14:17:46

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guy48065

I finally got my employer to spring for a modern calibrator (Fluke 5522A) and I'm looking forward to enjoying some automation in my lab.
My needs are pretty simple--I support a testing company and most my workload is rather low frequency and low voltage.  The demo calibrator I got to play with last year did come with a very pretty set of 2-foot Fluke test leads (5440A-7002) so I asked for a quote for a set.  $1002.00 for a 2-foot, 3-conductor set of leads blew my mind--and I'm an ex-audiophile used to seeing insane prices on wire!

I know many of you work for companies and groups with deep pockets but I'm hoping you can pass along some tips for cost-effective test leads...?

TIA...


guy48065

Actually I had found that thread in a search and had saved or printed a couple links to connectors...but had forgot to follow up on the Pomona 1756 recommendation.  I just looked it up (and many others with various terminations) and $50 is going to be a lot easier to swallow than $1000 for what I need.

Fluke is plain crazy charging what they do for accessories.

guy48065

Just to verify I haven't been sent the wrong price--Does the 3-wire, 2-foot set 5440A-7002 really cost $1000?

Google search turns up only a single postage-stamp image and NO prices.

USMC kalibrater

Sounds about right to me
Jason
"Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet." -General James Mattis

metrologygeek

Yup. $985.00 and two weeks. I think I get a discount, although not much.

Hawaii596

To be clear, my lab used to be Motorola Semiconductor's internal lab (in Austin and Tempe).  Back in those days, Motorola had deep pockets, and we have a pretty decent stash of (aging) 5440-7002 (not sure if that is the right one - it is the copper banana tipped leads).  We have both long and short lead sets - quite a few. 

What had been happening is that the banana contact spring lost its shape and the leads constantly were popping out.  So, rather  than buying new lead sets, a couple of times, we have bought replacement copper banana springs.  They are about $3 each or so.  That's about $12 per lead set.  A LOT cheaper than buying new leads.  So I replace them.  And at replacement, while I have the old spring removed (a fussy process to make sure and not shear off the plastic tip of the connector), I use some Deoxit and clean off the oxide from the copper pin; replace the spring, and then we have like-new 5440 leads.  They are great leads.  I do have a spool of belden shielded twin lead per recommendation of others here.  And it is good for what it is good for.  But nothing I have yet found beats the 5440 leads. 

I used to have some of the spade lug 5440 leads (5440-7003 I think??).  Those are really nice, but also expensive.  I think parts could be bought and those replicated home made without too much technical complexity.

Also, I will be doing the hot cal on my FLuke 732A soon.  Fluke sends a lead set that looks homemade by them for that.  I will take some good pictures this year.  It is not 5440, but some other type.  I may experiment with making some of those leads.
"I often say that when you can measure what you are speaking about, and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge is of a meagre and unsatisfactory kind."
Lord Kelvin (1824-1907)
from lecture to the Institute of Civil Engineers, 3 May 1883

guy48065

For the low voltage and low frequency cals typical of my workload it's hard for ME to accept $100 patch cords.  My boss just laughed "no way!"
I don't do any nanovolt cals so for the V & F range of my 5522A (no scope option) I'm sure $50 Pomona shielded leads will be fine.

I'm considering making a set or 2 using the untinned copper Belden twisted pair + the interesting audiophile copper bananas in your (Hawaii596) other thread.  I think such a cable would be near the performance of the 5440 leads--minus the safety of the shrouded banana pins.
I'm especially impressed by the rubber inserts in the split plugs that maintain contact pressure.  Seems a much better choice over soft copper springs.